Iris Skull Clutch
circa 2011
(antique gold (clasp),
leather (interior) and satin silk)
With this curious object marking the
starting point from which a steady flow of other McQueen 'relics' will follow
(and be admired), let us warn ourselves that in order to understand this
designer's work in even the most superficial dimension it is necessary to
expect as well as plainly accept the unexpected. This clutch, however, may be
considered quite tame in contrast to some of McQueen's more audacious pieces.
It is dark in taste: notice the black
ground paired with the 'blooming' skull where there lies a possible trace of
Codognato jewellery. This, unfortunately, makes the clutch an undeniable
'must-have' for those who prefer showing off over-popularised fashions of
so-called gothic beauty rather than a more personal taste, perhaps, or even
just timeless style. The real connoisseur recognises all things past the trendy
skull. It is indeed macabre - but it is elegant, not vulgar. The age-old
mysticism associated with the image of the skull is here made inferior to the
rest of the clutch's detail. Petals of pinks and blues and greens dwarf any
silly links with cult activity. They dress the skull in life and a lightness of
heart; they almost tease it with the very thing it once had, but now lacks
forever; and with their textured heads almost bursting off its body the
heavy lily buds imbue the clutch with more of a love of living than a desire
for dying.
