24 November 2013

20th Century Jewellery: the Brooch


English (designer(s) unknown)
A Devilish Stickpin
circa 1900
(carved labradorite (head), enamel, ruby and gold)

     A delicate masterpiece. Its amount of detail is just enough to convey a playful kind of evil. Whether stuck through one's hat, breast pocket or foulard, it will grab the attention of both the wearer and the on-looker despite it reaching no more than 70 millimetres in length. It acts to 'peep' out of whatever material it clings to, like a mischievous little spy intent on revenge - rather like the devil, actually. The idea of big size - its dominance of space or its apparent 'control' - does not always inspire terror or fear. As seen with this little carved character, it is moreso the unobtrusive thing, that which remains unseen or just a bit too quiet, that inspires the most panic.
     More realistically, however, it is not the cunning face that inspires the panic of this piece, but rather its value estimated to nearly 3'600 GBP by Wartski (London). That, at least, makes one stare at this stickpin with a mixture of shock and wonder.