Alexander McQueen: the Accessory

Alexander McQueen

Iris Skull Clutch

circa 2011

(antique gold (clasp), leather (interior) and satin silk)

     With this curious object marking the starting point from which a steady flow of other McQueen 'relics' will follow (and be admired), let us warn ourselves that in order to understand this designer's work in even the most superficial dimension it is necessary to expect as well as plainly accept the unexpected. This clutch, however, may be considered quite tame in contrast to some of McQueen's more audacious pieces.

     It is dark in taste: notice the black ground paired with the 'blooming' skull where there lies a possible trace of Codognato jewellery. This, unfortunately, makes the clutch an undeniable 'must-have' for those who prefer showing off over-popularised fashions of so-called gothic beauty rather than a more personal taste, perhaps, or even just timeless style. The real connoisseur recognises all things past the trendy skull. It is indeed macabre - but it is elegant, not vulgar. The age-old mysticism associated with the image of the skull is here made inferior to the rest of the clutch's detail. Petals of pinks and blues and greens dwarf any silly links with cult activity. They dress the skull in life and a lightness of heart; they almost tease it with the very thing it once had, but now lacks forever; and with their textured heads almost bursting off its body the heavy lily buds imbue the clutch with more of a love of living than a desire for dying. 

20th Century Jewellery: the Brooch

English (designer(s) unknown)

A Devilish Stickpin

circa 1900

(carved labradorite (head), enamel, ruby and gold)

     A delicate masterpiece. Its amount of detail is just enough to convey a playful kind of evil. Whether stuck through one's hat, breast pocket or foulard, it will grab the attention of both the wearer and the on-looker despite it reaching no more than 70 millimetres in length. It acts to 'peep' out of whatever material it clings to, like a mischievous little spy intent on revenge - rather like the devil, actually. The idea of big size - its dominance of space or its apparent 'control' - does not always inspire terror or fear. As seen with this little carved character, it is moreso the unobtrusive thing, that which remains unseen or just a bit too quiet, that inspires the most panic.

     More realistically, however, it is not the cunning face that inspires the panic of this piece, but rather its value estimated to nearly 3'600 GBP by Wartski (London). That, at least, makes one stare at this stickpin with a mixture of shock and wonder.

Julius Meinl (Austrian Firm)

Julius Meinl (Austrian firm, est. 1862)

Praline Box (Pappschachtel)

circa early twentieth century (?)

     An Austrian paper box vibrantly decorated with festive Russian motifs - all for the sake of pralines. What a wonder this would have been to any person opening it for the first time (and for those to come)! Or maybe, due to so much of the current rubbish filling the shelves of even the most prestigious sweet shops today, it only seems like this Julius Meinl artefact is worth more visually than what the contemporary eye has become used to.

     Besides that thought, this cardboard box is still a work entirely of its own no matter what its age. The looker is invited into at least three layers of experience: the visual, the textural and the savoury. First one must digest the colours and shapes of the illustration. Maybe a celebration of the coming of Spring, with flowers blooming from the snow under a warm sky specked with plump clouds, it brings to mind everything but chocolate. However, with a bit of imagination, one could treat this box as an actual Easter Egg à la russe, with its prominent colour being red (to represent the blood of Christ) and its element of song felt through the movement of its overall design as well as through the two balalaikas. The experience then continues into pulling open the lid of the box (the texture must be a bit grainy considering the earlier styles of printing) onto the actual smelling and tasting of the treats (once) within. As rich as it is already, consider the additional side-illustrations of chequered onions and striped turrets against darker skies of dusk.